Tuesday, 21 August 2018
Po wspinaniu w Alpach, nadszedł w końcu czas powrotu do treningów i odbudowania formy. Gdzie lepiej popracować na formą, jeśli nie w Mamucie? To był bardzo fajny dzień! Super ekipa i jak zwykle genialne wspinanie. Dzięki Jarku za wspólną "chłostę" :-)
Wednesday, 15 August 2018
Another interesting part of our trip is also our way back home... In Switzerland, our front tire blowout... so we were forced to drive using our backup tire all the way to Germany, where we have found a car service and bought two new tires for the front. Then we decided to take a rest and visit Rafal and Magda in Frankenjura. After two climbing days, we were on our way back home. Then on German Autobahn, driving around 140-150 km/h... our back tire blowout. I still do not know how we managed to survive that. Thankfully we were close to the Polish border, so after we reached Poland we were forced to buy a new back tire.
Yet somehow we reached our homes in one piece. I'm sure I will never forget this trip. Not only because of the way back home but also because of all the climbing.
Wednesday, 8 August 2018
After we came down from Torino, we have decided to take a short rest, eat pizza and head to Envers des Aiguilles. The weather forecast was still quite good so there was no time to waste.
Refuge de l'Envers des Aiguilles it's a very special place. I do not know why, but despite hard climbing, this place feels almost like home to me.
This time together with Paweł we managed to climb two classics and due to the rainy weather also a few shorter routes located just below the hut.
- Tour Rouge (2899m n.p.m.) - Le Marchand de Sable 6c (end with Dracula route)
- Pointe des Nantillons (2921m n.p.m.) - Amazonia 6b
- Envers Hut (2532m n.p.m.)
- Dinosaurus 6b / 6b+
- Elephant Man 5c / 6a+
- La Boite de Pandore 6a
Wednesday, 1 August 2018
For me, it's was one of the longest and the best trips in the Alps. The plan was to start from Italy, then go down and move to France (Chamonix) and climb near Envers des Aiguilles. Then if we would still have time, we wanted to go for the last few days to La Vallée Blanche and Aguille du Midi.
So as we planned... straight from the car, we have packed gear in our backpacks, took some food to Ikea bag :-) and pay for the cable car which took us to Punta Helbronner where we set up our tent close to the Torino hut.
Our main goal was to climb Grand Capucin, but unfortunately due to a few storms and snowfalls, we had to adjust our plan. We had to take it really slow and smart because we had no acclimatisation and we were sleeping in my small tent on the glacier where it was really hard to rest.
After all, it wasn't that bad because we managed to climb some really cool routes.
- Petit Capucin (3693m n.p.m.) - Roi De Siam | 5c // 330m
- Pointe Adolphe Rey (3535m n.p.m) - Salluard | 6a // 300m
- Chandelle du Tacul (3561m n.p.m.) - Bonatti - Tabou | 6b // unfortunately due to snow we had to go down...